Captain's Log: April 9, 2007
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| This afternoon the swell finally filled in. This is the one everyone has been talking about. We took the Va Pue out to the reef to check out the show and nearly got clipped on the first set. It has been a good 6 months since I had surfed out there and I was definitely a little nervous. The reef is just so heavy and demands a lot of respect. Shortly after we pulled up, JJ towed Manny into a sick one. He had to straighten out and we were in the panga on the top of the wave looking down at him as the beast buzz-sawed behind him. In normal Manny style, he stayed on his feet and made it across the bone yard. Manny and JJ both scored a couple of sick ones. I finally sucked it up and went to the peak and paddled into one. It wasn't much to speak of, but it was really nice to finally get a wave out there after so much time. John got himself a couple of nice tow-ins as well. JJ then came over and gave me the rope and towed me into a couple of descent ones. It is really a strange feeling getting whipped into waves, you can get in so early and then just have to decide how deep you really want to get. We surfed until dark and then had a sweet sunset boat ride back to Astillero. All of us are amping to see what the morning will bring! Special thanks to Erin O'Kon for the shots, you can check out her website at www.ebosurfphoto.com. |
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